atokniiro:

Success, a short comic about following your dreams

(made in celebration of my Facebook page reaching 100K Likes)

(via tarahm)

Source: atokniiro
Aug 29, 2014 46389 Buckets
LADIES AND GENTLEMEN

summoner-rena:

IF YOU ARE STREAMING, DON’T USE PROCASTER.

DON’T. USE. PROCASTER.

Livestream procaster consumes large amounts of cpu for nothing. No joke, nothing. As a result your stream can become laggy and sometimes it can damage your hardware as your PC has to push itself to keep what your streaming functioning as well as possible.

"But if we can’t use procaster what can we use insteaaaaad?"

Simple. There’s two programs, both that are free, that you can use that uses very little CPU and has more options than procaster. These programs are called Xsplit and OBS. To keep your head in one piece, I’m going to go over how to stream on Livestream with Xsplit.

Under the cut of course.

Read More

(via capsaicinoid)

Aug 20, 2014 20414 Buckets

tomscholes:

These will come in handy, thanks Daniel !
He’s got another sheet on his tumblr you might also want :)

(via artanecdotally)

Source: noniol
Aug 11, 2014 3534 Buckets

sketchypanda:

kiriiv:

how the fuck do legs work i don’t

image

image

image

i have a few feet ones too

(via julystorms)

Aug 10, 2014 60411 Buckets


AK’s Guide to Suits

An introduction to the finer details of menswear, and how to get them right in your… aw, hell, why am I describing it here? Read the intro!

(via alemanriq)

Aug 4, 2014 102125 Buckets
A weird thing I find incredibly helpful for art/writing.

sauntering-vaguely-downwards:

deadcantdraw:

Eplans.com is a website that sells blueprints for houses. 

This might not seem that helpful but if you want a characters house you can make selections based on what sort of house you want them to live in. 

image

Then browse through the results and find the house you want. Then you can view the blueprints and have a room layout for that house, which can help with visualising the space they live in. 

image

It makes describing generic homes so much easier.

image

(via julystorms)

Source: eplans.com
Aug 1, 2014 69033 Buckets

konpozaa:

pinkuboa:

(see, I DID do something for 200 followers.  12 followers late, but it’s something! owo”)

All music here is free to use in your games or other projects without charge, either operating on a “Ok to use as long as you give me credit” basis, a Creative Commons License, or is already in the public domain (meaning there’s no copyright on it).

 For more information on Creative Commons License works, check here.  For an easy to look at graph, check here.  Remember, if it’s Public Domain, it’s free to use & redistribute to your heart’s content.

And feel free to add on more resources to this post if you like. c:

———————————————————————————————————

➤ Free Collections Ready for Download 

———————————————————————————————————

(don’t worry, it’s not all yume nikki in here!  Keep reading!)

Plasterbrain’s Yume Freebie Collection - plasterbrain's Yume Nikki Fangame Sound dump.  According to them, they're ok with you using it for any type of projects as long as you don't redistribute the pack for money.  Check out their sound cloud. They also did music for DREAM VS DREAM, a Yume Nikki fighting game you can play here.  Music loops.

Yume Nikki Fangame Month - bwarch's pay-if-you-want-it-would-be-really-nice-if-you-did-but-it's-fine-if-you-don't pack of free to use Yume Nikki Fangame music for your Yume Nikki fan game (I did the art for it!).  Has a bunch of rad tracks for you to use! Check out his Bandcamp here, his Soundcloud here, and his Youtube here. Music loops.

The Remains of the 8 Bit Collective - A huge file of Chiptune/8 Bit music free to use from the now down site 8 Bit Collective.  There’s a bunch of crap, but there are good ones in there too.  Music loops.

Rindre’s Effect Sounds - A few Sound Effects for your Yume Nikki game by our friend pakilusin​! Sound effects.  She’s working on an upcoming fan game called Redux, formerly the game Flux.

Rindre’s Fangame Music Pack - Some good ambientish tracks by our friend pakilusinMusic Loops.  Check out her soundcloud here!

RPG Maker.net’s Music Pack - RPG Maker.net’s form got together and put out a wonderful album full of RPG Music for you to use.  Music & loops.

Noyemi K’s Game Placeholder Pack - A pack by noyemik that includes music & chipsets to use as a PLLACEHOLDER for your game.  She has some free to use for her game right down here…

Noyemi’s Free to Use Resources - Along with her Placeholder pack, she also has some free to use music & sounds as well.  She’s the maker of Amihailu in Dreamland & Hell Diary, two rad games with equally rad soundtracks.  Check out her sound cloud here! And her bandcamp here!

—————————————————————————————————

➤ Websites for Downloading Music

—————————————————————————————————

English Sites

Flashkit - Always check if it’s freeware, licenseware, or shareware!  Sound Effects & Music Loops.

Freesound.org -  Check the licensing agreement on the things you download!  Sound Effects and Music Loops.  You’ll need an account before you download anything, but the library is just so vast that it’s well worth it.

Partners in Rhyme - They’re mostly for youtube videos, but are ok if you use it in your video game.  Music Loops.

Looperman - Focuses on loops for audio software (so if you want to add more to it feel free). Here’s their terms & conditions page.  You also have to create an account before you download anything.  Loops, samples, sound effects, acapellas, & raps.

Sound Bible - Royalty-free Sound Effects under the public domain & attribution creative commons license.

Media College - has like, 10 loops in the public domain for you to download.

Free SFX - I linked to their License Page because it’s a bit hidden. Free Sound Effects.  Yes, you have to make an account, but it’s free.

JWinter Music - A blog that post free to use Music, mostly for youtube videos.

Indie Game Music.com - Specifically for indie games.  Music on the site is under three different licenses, so check this page before you go off downloading things.  Loops & Music.

FreePD.com - All of it is in the public domain (everything’s free to use because the copyright expired/there was no copyright in the first place).  Loops.

Media Collage - Free Sound Effects as long as you don’t sell them yourself.

SampleSwap.org -“You must Log in (or register) in order to download these samples.… 100% of the samples on this site are free, but registration helps us fight MP3 robots and establish controls over how much gets downloaded, and when.” Samples, Music & Noise Loops& sound effects.

Dig.CCMixter.org Check each track for a money symbol next to it.  If there is none, it’s free to download. Free music.

Incompetech - All music is under creative commons, made by one dude.  It’s a LOT of music, & is separated by different genres if you want to search for things. 

iBeats - for when you need looping beats for your music.  Remember, check the license (some are public domain, some are under commercial use under attribution, and most under a non-commercial license).

FreeMusicArchive.org - most works are under the Creative Commons license.  Music & Spoken Word downloads.

Free Loops - Mostly Free Loops & VST Plug ins.  Like so many others, check the license before downloading.

Musopen - Aims to be the largest public domain music collection.  Go ahead and check if the recording itself as well as the composition is in public domain. Most recordings are.  The site offers Classical Music Downloads, as well as Sheet Music. 

Japanese Sites

Vita Chi - Free to use for both commercial & non-commercial projects!  Music, Screams, & Sound Effects.  Mad Father has

PianosDauGe.org - I’m pretty sure it’s free for both commercial and non-commercial use, as long as you don’t redistribute. A bunch of Music Loops.  Check out the private policy (in Japanese) here.

Classical Masterpiece Sound Library - Need free classical music and fast?  Shazam!  Free to use commercially and non-commecially. Alice Mare & The Crooked Man used this site for their classical pieces.

Senses Circuit - Wadanohara & the Great Blue Sea.

Pocket Sound - Free to use Sound Effects! “This license lets others distribute, remix, tweak, and build upon a work, even commercially, as long as you credit them for the original creation.”

Tami Music Factory -  Free to use commercially & non commercially. Check out the copyright page here.  Sound effects, loops (Midi & Ogg), and… uh, mobile ringtones if you’re in need of those 0w0”.

Amacha Music - According to the FAQ, it’s free for both commercial and non-commecial use.  Music.

H/MIX GALLERY - free background music/loops made by Hirokazu Akiyama.  Free for non commercial use only though, you’ll have to pay for a license if you want to use it commercially. Mad Father, the Crooked Man, The Witch’s House, Alice Mare,

Otonomori - According to Rindere, it’s a free to use sound effects website for commercial and non-commercial uses.

Presence of Music - I’m pretty sure it’s just for non-commecial use only.  Has music for both standard RPGs & Horror RPGs.  Loops, I believe. Ib & the Witch’s House both have music from this site.

*Asterisk* - Free to use Midi files & Web music. Credit is not necessary, but appreciated.  

koukaongen.com - Free to use sound effects, music, & loops. Credit is nice, but you don’t need to link back to them.  I’m pretty sure it’s noncommercial use only.  One of the sites used by the creator of Ib.

Music Material - I’m not too sure what the copyright page says but you can look at it here.  Music.

Dova Syndrome - Check out the copyright page here.  Music & loops. 

A few more found by Rindere - I’m not translating these anymore, you’re on your own. >3< BUT they’re all supposed to be Sound Effects websites.

———————————————————————————————

Tumblrs

———————————————————————————————

rabbit-hole-divisions - All their music is free to use.  I haven’t heard from them in a while though!

Yume Nikki Fangame Music Sheet - Just something if you like sheet music & Yume Nikki fan games.

————————————————————————————————-

➤ Browser Music Making Programs

—————————————————————————————————

Make Music in your own browser! (Chrome, Firefox, Safari, Opera, etc.)

http://www.pulseboy.com - An 8bit/Chiptune Music Maker!

Bfxr - A sound effects maker!  

as3sfxr - another sound effects maker! A bit simpler than Bfxr.

———————————————————————————————

➤ Free Plug ins

———————————————————————————————

Some Chiptune VSTs (the post warns you that you probably shouldn’t the Toad & Peach ones!)

ALSO check out the YT channel “audiopad” all their stuff is under a free use lisence EVEN FOR COMMERCIAL WORK so if you want to get some money for your hard work, you can use their music legally, so long as you honor the license!

(via capsaicinoid)

Source: pinkuboa
Jul 30, 2014 22890 Buckets

ryanlangdraws:

I’ve had people insist that I used 3d an photos, despite my assertion that I haven’t. You can see the thread here http://www.reddit.com/r/comicbooks/comments/2ag3ku/this_is_a_painting_iron_man_by_ryan_lang/ But this isn’t for them. This is for people that like to see the process of an illustration. I tried to break it down, but if there are any questions, please ask. I have no problem with artists using photos or 3d in their digital work, so when I say I didn’t use photos or 3d for this image, it was that I wanted to see what I could accomplish on my own (with a couple of filters at the end). And if after this process post people still refuse to believe that I didn’t use photos or 3d….. I will take that as a compliment.

(via capsaicinoid)

Jul 24, 2014 5969 Buckets
psdo:

vaporware-femme:

jennythepirate:

desdinova:

jennythepirate:

I haven’t posted progress in a million years. The chain suit is finished. All I have left is finishing the leather and casting the elf ears.

You did Merrill’s full-body chain?! It looks amazing, how did you do it? It must have taken SO much time and work! Err, I should ask, is it ok to reblog this? I just wanted my followers to see it.

Thanks:D Rebloging is fine. Your followers can also see my bathroom:D
It’s taken about 2 years. There are 20,000 aluminum rings (I think it was 16 gauge but I don’t remember.) The instructions for making the sleeves and making it fitted come from here http://homepage.ntlworld.com/trevor.barker/farisles/guilds/armour/mail.htm I also used the pants pattern from the Armor Archive. http://www.armourarchive.org/essays/book__practical_chainmail/practical_chainmail.shtml

I am reblogging this version too so my followers can see it and spread it like wild fire, this took two years of sticking to it and pure dedication
I have literally never seen something more badass, I’m like in cosplay tears over it and I remember you starting this forever ago and I remember liking it back then too. It is amazing to see and I hope I get to see pictures of the final product.
Seriously well done. Oh my frick.

wHAT Hi Res

psdo:

vaporware-femme:

jennythepirate:

desdinova:

jennythepirate:

I haven’t posted progress in a million years. The chain suit is finished. All I have left is finishing the leather and casting the elf ears.

You did Merrill’s full-body chain?! It looks amazing, how did you do it? It must have taken SO much time and work! Err, I should ask, is it ok to reblog this? I just wanted my followers to see it.

Thanks:D Rebloging is fine. Your followers can also see my bathroom:D

It’s taken about 2 years. There are 20,000 aluminum rings (I think it was 16 gauge but I don’t remember.) The instructions for making the sleeves and making it fitted come from here http://homepage.ntlworld.com/trevor.barker/farisles/guilds/armour/mail.htm I also used the pants pattern from the Armor Archive. http://www.armourarchive.org/essays/book__practical_chainmail/practical_chainmail.shtml

I am reblogging this version too so my followers can see it and spread it like wild fire, this took two years of sticking to it and pure dedication

I have literally never seen something more badass, I’m like in cosplay tears over it and I remember you starting this forever ago and I remember liking it back then too. It is amazing to see and I hope I get to see pictures of the final product.

Seriously well done. Oh my frick.

wHAT

Jul 22, 2014 9655 Buckets

loish:

process video for the sketch from my last blog post! info on brushes, layers etc can be found in the description for the video on vimeo.

(via artanecdotally)

Source: loish
Jul 21, 2014 3507 Buckets

webcomicdojo:

thesilvereye:

View the fullsize tutorial on DA | The most handy hair structure tutorials are this video by Proko and thisblog post.These are useful for thinking about the direction hair locks flow with different styles: 1 2 3 4 5 | Painting Realistic Hair | Shading with gradients: 1 2 | Tutorials by me including: Gimp Brush Dynamics, Coloring Eyes and Coloring Method.

All example characters are fromThe Silver Eye webcomic!

So need this

Source: thesilvereye
Jul 20, 2014 34556 Buckets
myrddin-emrys:

Disclaimer: This is not my own idea; I got the tip from the lovely Elentari-liv, who was kind enough to share her technique with me. This is only showing the basics I’ve used to knit the scales, not how to make any certain piece.
Also, keep in mind that I’m still a beginner at knitting. I’ve been doing it for approximately two weeks.
What you’ll need:
circular knitting needles
yarn
small scales
You’ll probably want to choose a yarn close to your scale colour, or one that complements it (I used a contrasting one here to make things easier to show). You may have to experiment a bit with the yarn gauge and size of the needles. I ended up using gauge three yarn and size six needles after some testing. Larger needles widened the gap between scales, so that the yarn was visible in between, which I didn’t want, and thicker yarn made the scales stick out too much as opposed to hanging. It looked like I was knitting a very ruffled dragon.
Scales can be purchased from The Ring Lord, with multiple choices of colour and material. I’ve experimented with both aluminum and steel; the steel seems to hang better because of its weight, but it all depends on what you need for your project!
(I’m putting the actual process under a read more because I do have a lot of photos.)
Read More
Hi Res

myrddin-emrys:

Disclaimer: This is not my own idea; I got the tip from the lovely Elentari-liv, who was kind enough to share her technique with me. This is only showing the basics I’ve used to knit the scales, not how to make any certain piece.

Also, keep in mind that I’m still a beginner at knitting. I’ve been doing it for approximately two weeks.

What you’ll need:

  • circular knitting needles
  • yarn
  • small scales

You’ll probably want to choose a yarn close to your scale colour, or one that complements it (I used a contrasting one here to make things easier to show). You may have to experiment a bit with the yarn gauge and size of the needles. I ended up using gauge three yarn and size six needles after some testing. Larger needles widened the gap between scales, so that the yarn was visible in between, which I didn’t want, and thicker yarn made the scales stick out too much as opposed to hanging. It looked like I was knitting a very ruffled dragon.

Scales can be purchased from The Ring Lord, with multiple choices of colour and material. I’ve experimented with both aluminum and steel; the steel seems to hang better because of its weight, but it all depends on what you need for your project!

(I’m putting the actual process under a read more because I do have a lot of photos.)

Read More

Jul 17, 2014 10415 Buckets
thefrogman:

frogmanslightschool:

Exposure: The beginning of a great photoSill Level: Beginner
Getting a proper exposure is at the heart of all photography. I will now attempt to explain it in the simplest terms possible.
The Basics
You camera has a sensor.

This sensor collects light. Too much light and the image is bright or “overexposed.” Not enough light and your image is dark or “underexposed.”

There are 3 main elements that determine your exposure: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. 
Aperture
The aperture is just an adjustable hole inside your lens that lets in light.

The bigger the hole, the more light it can let in. The smaller the hole, the less light it can let in.
Aperture is measured in f-stops. This indicates the size of the hole. Though it seems backwards, a lower number means a bigger hole. A higher number means a smaller hole.

Your lens will be rated with its maximum aperture. So if it is a “17-55mm f/4 lens”—that means f/4 is the biggest hole it can make. Most lenses can go to f/22, which would be the smallest hole it can make.
A “fast lens” is one that has a very large maximum aperture. These lenses have an f-stop of 2.8 or lower. They are great for doing photography in low light. 
A large aperture (low f-stop number) can also give you shallow depth of field. This allows you to make your background blurry to better isolate your subjects. 

This is a very desirable thing for many photographers, so they try to get the fastest lens they can. 
Shutter Speed
Shutter speed is how long your sensor is exposed to light. Think of two sliding doors in front of the sensor. They open, let in light, and then close. A fast shutter speed lets in very little light. A slow shutter speed lets in a lot of light.
Shutter speed is measured in seconds. A fast shutter speed will be a fractional value, like 1/500th of a second. A slow shutter speed can be entire seconds.
Your camera might display fractions as just the bottom number in the fraction. So 1/500th would just show as 500. Whole seconds will have a double quotation mark after. So 5 seconds will appear as 5”. 
Faster shutter speeds let in less light, but will allow you to freeze action.

Slower shutter speeds let in more light, allowing you to take images in darker environments. With a long enough exposure, you can make night look like day. 

With slow shutter speeds you risk your image blurring due to your hands shaking the camera or movement of the subjects in your photos. So if you do a long exposure, you will almost certainly need a very still subject and a tripod.
There is a formula for keeping camera shake from blurring your photo. You just put 1 over the length of your lens. So if your lens is 50mm, you need a shutter speed of 1/50th or faster. Note: This will not stop blurring due to your subject moving. 
ISO
ISO is the amplification of your sensor. Similar to the volume knob on your radio, ISO amplifies the sensitivity of the sensor so you can increase your shutter speed or make your aperture smaller. It makes the light “louder.” However, this can come at a cost. The more you amplify the sensor, the more noise will show up in your image.

Some cameras can go to a very high ISO and have very little noise. These cameras are usually frickin’ expensive. As technology advances, cheaper cameras get better and have less noise at higher ISOs.
Getting the Balance
A proper exposure requires balancing aperture, shutter speed, and ISO to get your desired result.
To get shallow depth of field you’ll need a large aperture. So you make your f-stop the lowest number possible. But that lets in a lot of light, so you need a fast shutter speed to balance it out. 
To take a long exposure, your shutter speed will now let in a ton of light. To keep from overexposing you may need to make your aperture very small so the image does not overexpose. 
If it is darker and things are moving, you’ll need a fast shutter speed and a large aperture. But you can’t get a fast enough shutter speed to avoid blur. So you raise your ISO to amplify the light, allow you to get the proper exposure, and keep your subjects from blurring. Yes, it will cause your image to have some noise, but it is a worthy compromise to get the image you desire. 
Photography is often about making compromises. Sacrificing a little bit of quality in one area to create the intended effect with a proper exposure. Learning this balancing act can take years to truly master and in further posts I will go deeper into how to figure out how to get the best exposure possible for any situation. 
TL;DR
Exposure is the amount of light captured on your sensor or film
Not enough light = underexposed
Too much light = overexposed
Aperture is the hole in your lens that lets in different amounts of light
A large hole is a small f-stop
A small hole is a large f-stop
A large hole creates shallow depth of field (sharp subject, blurry background)
A shutter opens and closes to expose your sensor for different amounts of time
A fast shutter speed freezes motion, but lets in less light
A slow shutter speed lets in a lot of light, but can cause motion blur if subject is not still
ISO is the amplification of the sensor
HIGH ISO makes the image brighter, but creates noise
LOW ISO makes the image darker, but gives you the cleanest result
Photos by Froggie
You can find me here: [tumblr | wishlist]

This is an example of the tutorial style posts you can find on the newly launched Frogman’s Light School. Eventually, we will cover a variety of topics at every skill level, from beginner to advanced, so keep checking back.
If you’ve been wanting to brush up on your photography skills, follow along! Hi Res

thefrogman:

frogmanslightschool:

Exposure: The beginning of a great photo
Sill Level: Beginner

Getting a proper exposure is at the heart of all photography. I will now attempt to explain it in the simplest terms possible.

The Basics

You camera has a sensor.

image

This sensor collects light. Too much light and the image is bright or “overexposed.” Not enough light and your image is dark or “underexposed.”

image

There are 3 main elements that determine your exposure: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. 

Aperture

The aperture is just an adjustable hole inside your lens that lets in light.

image

The bigger the hole, the more light it can let in. The smaller the hole, the less light it can let in.

Aperture is measured in f-stops. This indicates the size of the hole. Though it seems backwards, a lower number means a bigger hole. A higher number means a smaller hole.

image

Your lens will be rated with its maximum aperture. So if it is a “17-55mm f/4 lens”—that means f/4 is the biggest hole it can make. Most lenses can go to f/22, which would be the smallest hole it can make.

A “fast lens” is one that has a very large maximum aperture. These lenses have an f-stop of 2.8 or lower. They are great for doing photography in low light. 

A large aperture (low f-stop number) can also give you shallow depth of field. This allows you to make your background blurry to better isolate your subjects. 

image

This is a very desirable thing for many photographers, so they try to get the fastest lens they can. 

Shutter Speed

Shutter speed is how long your sensor is exposed to light. Think of two sliding doors in front of the sensor. They open, let in light, and then close. A fast shutter speed lets in very little light. A slow shutter speed lets in a lot of light.

Shutter speed is measured in seconds. A fast shutter speed will be a fractional value, like 1/500th of a second. A slow shutter speed can be entire seconds.

Your camera might display fractions as just the bottom number in the fraction. So 1/500th would just show as 500. Whole seconds will have a double quotation mark after. So 5 seconds will appear as 5”. 

Faster shutter speeds let in less light, but will allow you to freeze action.

image

Slower shutter speeds let in more light, allowing you to take images in darker environments. With a long enough exposure, you can make night look like day. 

image

With slow shutter speeds you risk your image blurring due to your hands shaking the camera or movement of the subjects in your photos. So if you do a long exposure, you will almost certainly need a very still subject and a tripod.

There is a formula for keeping camera shake from blurring your photo. You just put 1 over the length of your lens. So if your lens is 50mm, you need a shutter speed of 1/50th or faster. Note: This will not stop blurring due to your subject moving. 

ISO

ISO is the amplification of your sensor. Similar to the volume knob on your radio, ISO amplifies the sensitivity of the sensor so you can increase your shutter speed or make your aperture smaller. It makes the light “louder.” However, this can come at a cost. The more you amplify the sensor, the more noise will show up in your image.

image

Some cameras can go to a very high ISO and have very little noise. These cameras are usually frickin’ expensive. As technology advances, cheaper cameras get better and have less noise at higher ISOs.

Getting the Balance

A proper exposure requires balancing aperture, shutter speed, and ISO to get your desired result.

To get shallow depth of field you’ll need a large aperture. So you make your f-stop the lowest number possible. But that lets in a lot of light, so you need a fast shutter speed to balance it out. 

To take a long exposure, your shutter speed will now let in a ton of light. To keep from overexposing you may need to make your aperture very small so the image does not overexpose. 

If it is darker and things are moving, you’ll need a fast shutter speed and a large aperture. But you can’t get a fast enough shutter speed to avoid blur. So you raise your ISO to amplify the light, allow you to get the proper exposure, and keep your subjects from blurring. Yes, it will cause your image to have some noise, but it is a worthy compromise to get the image you desire. 

Photography is often about making compromises. Sacrificing a little bit of quality in one area to create the intended effect with a proper exposure. Learning this balancing act can take years to truly master and in further posts I will go deeper into how to figure out how to get the best exposure possible for any situation. 

TL;DR

  • Exposure is the amount of light captured on your sensor or film
  • Not enough light = underexposed
  • Too much light = overexposed
  • Aperture is the hole in your lens that lets in different amounts of light
  • A large hole is a small f-stop
  • A small hole is a large f-stop
  • A large hole creates shallow depth of field (sharp subject, blurry background)
  • A shutter opens and closes to expose your sensor for different amounts of time
  • A fast shutter speed freezes motion, but lets in less light
  • A slow shutter speed lets in a lot of light, but can cause motion blur if subject is not still
  • ISO is the amplification of the sensor
  • HIGH ISO makes the image brighter, but creates noise
  • LOW ISO makes the image darker, but gives you the cleanest result

Photos by Froggie

You can find me here: [tumblr wishlist]

This is an example of the tutorial style posts you can find on the newly launched Frogman’s Light School. Eventually, we will cover a variety of topics at every skill level, from beginner to advanced, so keep checking back.

If you’ve been wanting to brush up on your photography skills, follow along!

(via tmilosav)

Jul 17, 2014 6612 Buckets
Dragons

thewritingcafe:

pitviperofdoom asked you:

Dragons. Do you have any useful links on dragons? Different types from different mythologies, different designs and features and abilities, that sort of thing?

General:

(via doublefudgeb-icecream)

Jul 15, 2014 3622 Buckets